THE SEAMASTER REFERENCE PAGE

Review of the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Titanium Liquidmetal

John B. Holbrook, II — Thu, 19 May 2011 18:19:54 +0000

Last week, Omega sent me the new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Titanium Liquidmetal – introduced at Baselworld just two months ago.

You can head over to the Omega Forum on WATCH TALK FORUMS to read and discuss my review by clicking here.

NEWS: Omega vs. Costco Upheld by the Supreme Court!

John B. Holbrook, II — Tue, 14 Dec 2010 19:16:33 +0000

OMEGA wins U. S. Supreme Court challenge

Weehawken- December 14, 2010

In a split decision, the United States Supreme Court has upheld an appeals court ruling that found Costco Wholesale Corporation had violated U. S. copyright law when it sold Omega Seamaster wristwatches well below retail price without Omega’s permission.

The practice employed by discounters and off-price retailers of buying imported luxury watches and other products from middlemen and selling them at lower prices is referred to as grey market trading.

Omega argued successfully that it could use the copyrighted logo on its watches to block their sale. For Omega, the decision was a victory as it upholds their right to control the distribution, price and resale of its products.

The Swatch Group and Omega commend the decision as it provides a legal mechanism to help control the spread of grey market trading. According to an analysis conducted by Deloitte LLP for Bloomberg in 2009, the grey market costs manufacturers as much as $63 billion per year.

Review of the Omega Speedmaster

John B. Holbrook, II — Tue, 23 Nov 2010 17:03:24 +0000

Review of the Omega Speedmaster
By: John B. Holbrook, II
November 23rd, 2010

The Omega Speedmaster is one of the most famous and recognizable watches in the world. NASA chose the Speedmaster, after rigorous torture tests of several different watches, to be the standard issue watch for all astronauts in both the Gemini and Apollo space missions. The astronauts of Apollo XIII literally owe their lives to a Speedmaster which helped them with course corrections when an explosion rendered their on board instruments inoperative. Clearly the “Moon Watch” is steeped in history and tradition, and a worthy addition to any watch enthusiasts collection.

Beginning with the case of the Speedmaster Professional, the stainless steel case has a blend of finishes applied – satin-finished sides, polished beveled edges. The way the bezel angles outward as it rises from the case is quite stunning. The case is an ample 42mm in diameter, and is water resistant down to 50 meters, or 167 feet – not particularly water resistant, but then again the astronauts didn’t do much swimming on the Moon anyway. The case back features the famous engraving “First Watch Worn On The Moon” as well as proclaiming its flight qualification status by NASA.

The dial of the Speedmaster Professional is probably is strongest and most enduring quality – it may well be the most legibly designed and executed chronograph dial ever conceived. The matte black dial features white graduated hour and minute markings with white stick hands, and the subdials have the same configuration. Superluminova is the luminescent compound of choice to provide low-light visibility for the Speedmaster Pro, but because the surface area on which it is applied is small, the legibility in low-light conditions isn’t stellar, but acceptable. The Speedmaster Professional dial is protected by the famous Omega “Hesalite” crystal.

The Speedmaster bracelet and clasp are a marvelous blend of beauty, comfort, and functionality. The stainless steel bracelet is composed of links held together with friction pins. The links are primarily done in a brushed finish, but the center link has polished outer edges. These polished accents tie in nicely with the polished case, and bring out the dress appeal of the watch without unduly sacrificing the durability provided by the predominantly brushed finish – contributing greatly to the wardrobe versatility of the coveted “Moon Watch.” The two button clasp is elegant in its execution, and extremely sturdy. I don’t think I’ve ever encountered a clasp design I think of more highly. Optimal comfort can be attained by the use of the fine adjustment pin located in the clasp.

Within the case of the Omega Speedmaster Professional beats the Lemania based Omega Calibre 1861 (Lemania 1873, with Rhodium plating applied). This hand wound mechanical movement has a 48 hour power reserve, and a balance wheel with a beat-speed of 21,600 bph, and is notably designed with cam activated chronograph functions. While the Omega caliber 1861 is legendary for its accuracy and robust performance, Omega has never chosen to submit the caliber to COSC for chronometer certification, though I’ve little doubt that the caliber 1861 pass with flying colors. I suppose in the eyes of Omega, the value of flight certification from NASA is a greater proof and testament to the accuracy and performance of the watch and its movement than COSC testing and certification.

Few watches in horological history epitomize the term “classic” as well as the Omega Speedmaster Professional (Reference 3570.50.00). Few watches can proclaim a longer uninterrupted production status than the famous “Moon Watch.” When one considers the extreme conditions to which the watch was put during the famous Apollo XIII mission (among others) – the freezing cold of space, the vibration and G-force of lift-off and re-entry, operating in zero gravity – it is a testament to the standard build quality of the watch that it came through unscathed. The retail price of the watch is just $3850.00. When one considers the tremendous history behind this watch, as well as the incredible performance of the piece, the value delivered by the “Speedy Pro” is nearly unparalleled.

You can discuss this article in the Omega Forum of my online luxury watch discussion forum community WATCH TALK FORUMS.

*All text and images contained in this review are the original work of the author, John B. Holbrook, II and are copyright protected. Use of any of the information or images without the permission of the author is prohibited.

Review of the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean

John B. Holbrook, II — Tue, 23 Nov 2010 16:43:14 +0000

Review of the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
By: John B. Holbrook, II
November 23rd, 2010

Luxury sport automatics are the hottest segment in the watch industry, and Omega has been a leader of the segment since their founding by Louis Brandt in 1848 in La Chaux-de-Fonds. So when Omega announced the release of the Seamaster Plant Ocean – a brand new entry in this ultra-competitive sport watch segment at the 2005 Basel World watch show, the entire industry stood up and took notice.

The Seamaster Planet Ocean is the first significant redesign of the Seamaster since the introduction of Omega Seamaster Professional in 1993. The Planet Ocean is offered in two different size variations – one in 42mm, and one if 45.5mm, and is available with either a strap or bracelet. Comparing the new Seamaster Planet Ocean to the previous Omega Seamaster Professional, the 42mm Planet Ocean is nearly identical in size proportions. However there are several cosmetic differences. Gone is the scalloped bezel shape of the Seamaster Professional, and it’s place on the Planet Ocean is a coin edge bezel that’s quite reminiscent of the old Seamaster 300 from the later 1950’s. The Planet Ocean dial also pays homage to the Seamaster 300, as the marker design and layout is almost identical in appearance. However the Planet Ocean hands seem to draw from both the Omega Broad Arrow and Aqua Terra with their arrow head shape.

While the case design of the Planet Ocean is very similar to the Seamaster Professional, water resistance is significantly improved on the Planet Ocean – 600m/2000ft. vs. 300m/1000ft. on the Seamaster Professional. The upper left hand quadrant of the Planet Ocean sports the familiar helium escape value first introduced on the Seamaster Professional, but the winding crown on the right hand side of the case is significantly larger in diameter and easier to grip than the previous version.

As gorgeous and exciting as the rest of this watch is, I believe the Omega Caliber 2500 movement within the case is the most interesting feature of this watch. Like the Omega Caliber 1120 which is commonly used in the Seamaster Professional line, the self-winding Caliber 2500 is based upon the ETA 2892-2. The use of the ETA ebauche means that the Caliber 2500 isn’t considered an “in house” movement, or manufacturer’s caliber in the strictest of sense. But, given that both Omega and legendary movement manufacturer ETA are owned by the Swatch Group, the Caliber 2500 might just be an “in family” movement even if it isn’t manufactured completely “in house” by Omega. The Caliber 2500 ads 2 more jewels as compared to the Caliber 1120 (27 jewels in total) as well as employing the revolutionary Co-Axial Escapement designed by George Daniels. The primary engineering advantage gained by this design feature is greatly reduced friction. Thanks to this reduction in friction within the movement, the Caliber 2500 requires minimal lubrication. The Planet Ocean can go an amazing 10 years between servicing, and has a warranty period from Omega one year longer than other watches they sell (3 year manufactures warranty).

Additionally, the Caliber 2500 is equipped with a simplified regulating system called a free-sprung balance which greatly improves the timing precision of this COSC certified movement.

The Caliber 2500 vibrates at a speed of 25, 200 VPH – an unusual beat speed that to my knowledge has never before been used in a movement balance. Apparently the odd balance speed is attributable to the complex co-axial escapement, and the somewhat narrow parameters in which it operates optimally. I’ve gone on record many times lamenting the beat speed of the caliber 2500, so I won’t beat a dead horse here except to say that I would prefer the caliber have a standard high-beat speed of 28,800 VPH. Even though the Caliber 2500 is hidden behind a solid case back on the Planet Ocean, Omega has applied a premium level of finishing to the movement. The rhodium coating and Geneva waves on the rotor and bridgework are quite stunning. The rotor is also signed with the Omega logo and caliber number. While it is too early in the Caliber 2500’s production history to make any definitive judgments, it is clear that the movement has the potential to take a seat at the table which includes the world’s greatest automatic movements. Many watch makers consider the ETA 2892 a legendary movement in its own right. With the impressive modifications that Omega has applied to create the Caliber 2500, the horological significance of the movement is increased by an order of magnitude.

Omega is not the first manufacturer to make use of George Daniels innovative design feature, but they are the first to include it in a mass production model watch. The free-sprung balance is another somewhat rare engineering enhancement rarely seen in watches with prices attainable by mere mortal men (Rolex has used a similar regulation system for several years as a cornerstone of their movements precision).

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is a worthy successor to the Seamaster Professional line, and a strong contender in the hotly contested luxury sport watch segment. My personal tastes tend to lean more toward the previous Seamaster Professional models, but since the Planet Ocean’s introduction, it has proven to be an extremely popular model.

You can discuss this article in the Omega Forum of my online luxury watch discussion forum community WATCH TALK FORUMS.

Review of The Omega Seamaster “Ploprof” 1200 M

John B. Holbrook, II — Mon, 08 Nov 2010 16:03:13 +0000

My Review of The Omega Seamaster “Ploprof” 1200 M is now posted in the Omega Discussion Forum on WATCH TALK FORUMS – just click here to read the review!

You can discuss this article in the Omega Forum of my online luxury watch discussion forum community WATCH TALK FORUMS.

Review of the Speedmaster Broad Arrow Co-Axial

John B. Holbrook, II — Thu, 07 Oct 2010 15:14:12 +0000

Omega recently sent me one of their latest (and in my humble opinion) greatest new offerings to review from Basel 2010 – the new Speedmaster Broad Arrow Co-Axial.

I’ve been pretty candid in the past about my being less than thrilled at how Omega has done the Great Co-Axial Escapement Rollout in their movements over the past roughly 10 years. In almost every situation where an Omega movement has gone Co-Axial, they’ve dialed back the beat speed – something that shouldn’t have to be done if the Co-Axial escapement truly functioned as advertised, in my personal opinion. But the Broad Arrow Co-Axial’s Caliber 3313 runs at 28,800 BPH – the industry standard for a hi-beat movement.

To read my full review of the new Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow, just click here and head over to the Omega discussion forum of WATCH TALK FORUMS.

Omega Launches Their New iPhone App!

John B. Holbrook, II — Sun, 22 Aug 2010 11:45:19 +0000

Press Photo From Omega.com

This week, Omega announced their new app for the iPhone – here’s the press release:

The world of OMEGA is at your fingertips. You have the opportunity to browse our entire collection – you can carry images and technical data about every OMEGA wristwatch in your pocket. With the Watchfinder function, you can also select the timepieces which have exactly the specifications that you are looking for. You can save your choices as Favorites.

The time and date are attractively displayed on an OMEGA De Ville Hour Vision watch. When you tap on the dial, the back of the watch will appear on your iPhone. Its sapphire case back allows you to watch the automated operation of OMEGA’s revolutionary Co-Axial caliber 8501.

When you are ready to visit an OMEGA Boutique, the App will help you find the one nearest you or any of our other locations around the world.

Regular news updates also keep you in touch with the latest stories from a brand defined by the pioneering spirit which has made us part of every piloted NASA mission since 1965 (including all six lunar landings) and Official Timekeeper at the Olympic Games since 1932.

There is also a selection of wallpapers, including some of our most popular brand ambassadors (George Clooney, Nicole Kidman, Cindy Crawford, Zhang Ziyi and Michael Phelps) and our most popular timepieces.

As far as I know this is the first iPhone app released by the Swatch Group – Richemont has been much more proactive in developing and launching iPhone apps to support their brands, including IWC, Panerai, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

If you’re interested in seeing a review of this app, just click here to head over to my other site WATCH TALK FORUMS where I give a run down on how the new app works.

The Servicing Of My Omega Aqua Terra: A Detailing Of My Experience With Sending My Watch To Omega In Bienne Switzerland

John B. Holbrook, II — Mon, 16 Aug 2010 14:45:18 +0000

The Servicing Of My Omega Aqua Terra:

A Detailing Of My Experience With Sending

My Watch To Omega In

By: John B. Holbrook, II

October 4, 2004

Having owned my Aqua Terra (purchased new from an authorized dealer) for just over a year, I started noticing that my beloved Omega AT was running quite slow. The watch had almost always ran on the slow side, but never more than a couple of seconds per day. Sometimes it wouldn’t loose any time at all for days at a time. Given my choice, I’d prefer a watch to run fast than slow – slow running watches irritate me. Call it a pet peeve but when you synch up to an atomic clock source as I do whenever I slip on one of my watches, it’s much quicker and easier to do with a watch that runs fast than one that runs slow. In any event, my AT started falling outside of COSC parameters, so I decided to send it to Omega for service and regulation.

As this was to be my first experience with Omega service, I decided to do a little background research. I’d already decided based on testimonials I’d read that I wanted to send my watch directly to Omega’s service department in Bienne Switzerland, and not here in the US. I’ve read absolutely glowing reviews about the Bienne Service Center, and horrible testimonials of service experience with the US based centers. My first step was to dispatch an E-Mail to Omega via their customer service section of their company website (www.omega.ch) detailing my problems, and requesting instructions for how to send my watch directly to Bienne. I also sent long time Omega fan Keith Dowling an E-Mail asking for his advice on how to proceed, given that he’s been through the process. About a day after I sent Omega the initial E-Mail, I received the following instructions:

Dear Mr Holbrook,

We thank you for your message regarding your two Omega watches. We shall gladly take care of your watches and suggest that you send them to our Customer Service in Bienne at the following address:

OMEGA Ltd

Customer Service

Rue Staempfli 96

2500 Bienne 4

Switzerland

Phone: 032 / 343 9561

Fax: 032 / 343 9855

The parcel should be sent by registered and insured mail, together with a “certificate of registration” form no CF 4455, which can be obtained at any Customs Office, to avoid difficulties upon the re-importation to your country. Please make sure that your parcel is clearly marked “watches for repair/customs clearing by receiver in Bienne, Switzerland”. NOTE FROM AUTHOR: I asked the post office about form CF 4455 and they’d never heard of it. I DID NOT fill out the form and experienced no problems as a result.

Upon receipt of your watches, our technicians will examine them very closely and we shall submit you our reports with all relevant details. Please be assured that we shall accord special attention to your Omega watches.

We would like to give you more details about the chronometer performances as following:

To obtain the title of “chronometer” every single watch movement must be submitted to the severe tests of the Swiss official Chronometer Control (COSC). The Swiss Norms for chronometer rating certificates are of -4/+6 seconds per day, when the watch is worn.

All Omega automatic chronometers can, however, be adjusted to a tighter rating, in order to obtain results above 0 second per day when the watch is worn.

The precision of a mechanical watch can vary from one person to another, depending upon the individual wearing conditions.

An adjustment to perform within these limits is very easy to be done through a qualified Omega watchmaker. However, before having such adjustment made, it is advisable to synchronize your watch with an official time signal and to wear it for about 15 days without re-setting it; any deviation can then be corrected.

The performance of a certified chronometer movement cannot be compared with that of a quartz movement, which has an entirely different basis, only a few mobile parts and is battery driven.

A mechanical chronometer still represents the watchmaker know-how and gives to the owner a feeling of comfort and pride to wear a timepiece representing the skill of the traditional Swiss watch making industry.

Awaiting your consignment we remain,

with kind regards,

OMEGA Ltd

Maria Mastrodonato

Customer Service

Phone: +41 32 343 9561

Fax: +41 32 343 9855

Website: www.omega.ch

The very next day (August 18th) I packaged up my watch (you’ll want to let the post office seal it as is required for an international shipment of this nature) insured the watch, filled out the customs paperwork and sent my watch off to Bienne. It took about 15 minutes at the post office, and cost me about $20.00. In the package, I included a printout of the above E-mail, and added some fairly detailed instructions of what I wanted them to do. I asked that the watch be regulated, and if possible, I’d prefer that the watch run fast not slow, and within COSC specifications. Based on everything I’d read online, I expected the entire process to take about 4-6 weeks.

At the one month mark, (September 17th) anxious to see my Aqua Terra again, I dispatched an E-Mail to Omega in order to confirm receipt of my watch, and also to see if they had an estimated time of completion and return. I got the following E-Mail back within 24 hrs.:

Dear Mr Holbrook, II,

We acknowledge good receipt of your OMEGA watch.

Your watch has been examined by our technicians and our detailed reports have been sent to your address, by separate air mail post.

Please note the following repair number:

- Repair no 736.594 – Seamaster Aqua Terra watch reference 2502.50.00

The watch is actually at our workshop and will be repaired, as per your instructions. After passing successfully our final quality tests, your Omega watch will be despatched to you at the end of September 2004.

In the meantime we wish you a great day.

With kind regards,

OMEGA Ltd

Maria Mastrodonato

Customer Service

Phone: +41 32 343 9561

Fax: +41 32 343 9855

Website: www.omega.ch

I was quite pleased by this response – not only had they received my watch, but they actually read my instructions and were following them! Best of all, my waiting was almost over -the watch would soon be leaving Bienne and heading for home!

On Monday, October 4th, our regular mail delivery person walked in and announced she needed someone to sign for a certified international parcel – my AT was finally back from Bienne! Upon opening the package, I was first greeted by the below pictured case which Omega ships watches in for the return trip back to their owner. I was quite impressed by the thought that went into the design of this travel case – it contained specially cut foam to protect the watch inside the case:

The watch itself was also wrapped in the same protective plastic that a new Omega watch comes with. Indeed, removing the plastic, I was taken aback by how brand spanking new the watch looked. Clearly Omega had done more than simply regulate the watch. I then located the invoice which detailed the work that had been done to the watch:

As you can see, Omega agreed with my assessment that the watches timing rate was poor. They also noted that the case was scratched (if it was, I didn’t notice it but I don’t doubt them), that the bezel showed signs of “shock” (strange given that I’d never dropped the watch) and that the crystal was scratched. That last one REALLY surprised me – how the heck to you scratch a sapphire crystal??? In any event, the invoice indicates the work they performed would normally have been an 80.00 charge, but was performed at NO COST under warranty. They didn’t even charge me for the return postage.

I then found two baggies containing various parts. It’s Omega’s normal practice to return to the customer any pieces or parts they remove from the watch. I think this is excellent service on Omega’s part – not only does it help demonstrate the work that was done, but it also makes good sense – why not return the parts to the customer? After all, they paid for them. Here’s a picture of one of the small baggies I received with my watch:

You’ll see above that they replaced the metal spacer ring, a couple of gasket rings, and several gear components from the movement. If you look closely, you’ll see they replaced the actual co-axial escapement from the caliber 2500!

Upon closer examination of my watch, it was clear that the bracelet and case had been carefully polished and not a scratch was on the watch – even the clasp looked as good as the day I first got the watch! A second baggie I found contained – get this – spring bars. Omega actually replaced the spring bars from the bracelet!

In short, to say that I was completely satisfied with my service experience from Omega is an understatement to say the least. Omega went well above and beyond any expectations I had in their servicing of my watch. In an industry where poor after sales service is more common than not, Omega seems to be an example for all others to follow. I’ll close this article with a picture of my freshly serviced Omega Aqua Terra:

You can discuss this article in the Omega Forum of my online luxury watch discussion forum community WATCH TALK FORUMS.

Comparative Review of the Rolex Sea-Dweller VS. Omega Planet Ocean

John B. Holbrook, II — Tue, 03 Aug 2010 19:24:29 +0000

Comparative Review of the Rolex Sea-Dweller VS. Omega Planet Ocean

By: John B. Holbrook, II

February 3rd, 2007

As I sit down to write this comparative review, I realize it’s been 4 years since I compared dive watches from Rolex and Omega. In the four years since I first compared the Omega Seamaster Professional to the Rolex Submariner and the article has become one of the most popular watch related articles on the web – hardly a week goes by that someone doesn’t read the article and write to me with questions or comments. As much as I’d like to take credit for the popularity of the article, it’s the topic which is very interesting. In the world of luxury watches, the rivalry between Rolex and Omega is every bit as strong as that between Ford and Chevy in the car world, or the University of Michigan and Ohio State University in the world of college football. And the fans of each brand are both loyal and legion.

In the years since my previous comparison, Omega has created a new dive watch – the Seamaster Planet Ocean. Inside and out, the Planet Ocean is watch with specifications which exceed those of the previous generation Seamaster Professional. While the Seamaster Professional is a watch that compares well with the Rolex Submariner, the Planet Ocean is more appropriately compared to Rolex’s true deep-sea diving tool watch – the Sea-Dweller.

Firstly, a word about the methods by which I’m using to evaluate these two watches, and my own personal biases. Firstly, I’m not weighting the categories in any way. Each category (bracelet, clasp, case, price, etc.) are an equal component of the final overall score. For some people, price, for example, is much more an important of a category than, say the clasp. Feel free to weight each of these categories with your own values to arrive at your own conclusions. Secondly, let me disclose that the Seamaster Planet Ocean used in this article is not my own – it belongs to fellow WATCH TALK FORUMS Rolex Forum Administrator Scott D. If you get the opportunity, stop by WATCH TALK FORUMS at www.watchtalkforums.info and thank Scott loaning his watch to me for the purposes of writing this review. Now, on to the shootout!

As you can see from the above photograph, there’s a substantial size difference between the Sea-Dweller and the Planet Ocean. At 45.5mm in diameter, the Planet Ocean seemingly dwarfs the 40mm diameter Sea-Dweller. Accordingly, the Planet Ocean weighs considerably more than the Sea-Dweller – this is easily one of the heaviest watches, if not the heaviest watch, I’ve ever tried on. It feels at least 30% heavier than the Sea-Dweller. Is being bigger and heavier a good thing? That’s purely a matter of personal preference. From my stand point, 40mm is a pretty nice size – I can wear the 42mm Seamaster Professional, but the 45.5mm Planet Ocean was just too big and heavy for my taste. Fortunately, the Planet Ocean does come in a 42mm version, so if you’re considering the Planet Ocean, make sure you try on both sizes before buying one.

CASE

Planet Ocean: The PO case caries over some legacy design features of previous Seamaster generations, which is a good thing. It blends both polished and brushed finished surfaces for both cosmetic appeal, and functional advantage. The case is rated for 600m/2000ft. water resistance, which makes it twice as water resistant as the previous Seamaster Professional. A helium release valve is built into the case, making this watch particularly useful in extended time deep dives. The case has numerous angles and curves which vary the way light strikes and is reflected from the case, yet, there are no sharp corners and it’s completely comfortable. Of course, there’s the gorgeous Sea Monster logo on the case back. RATING: 9

Sea-Dweller: The Oyster case is a simple, yet classic design which has been often copied. The Sea-Dweller is rated for an astounding 1220m/4000 ft. of water resistance Like the bracelet (see my conclusion below on the use of 904 vs. 316L grade steel) the case is constructed from 904 grade steel. The case is also equipped with a helium escape valve, which is integrated in the case, and deploys if critical pressure thresholds are exceeded. RATING: 10

Winner: Sea-Dweller. The Oyster style case was the birth of the diving watch, but let us not forget that Omega was a pioneer in creating a water resistant (or water proof as was designated at the time) watches. The Sea-Dweller gets the nod here, based on being twice as water resistant as the Planet Ocean, and because of the more advanced design of the integrated helium escape valve.

BEZEL

Seamaster: The PO unidirectional bezel is much improved over the Seamaster Professional bezel, as the PO’s new coin edge design is more easily gripped underwater than the scalloped bezel of the SMP. I can easily grip it, and it has nice “click” sound as it makes its way around the dial. The markings on the bezel align perfectly with both the dial markers and hands, and are very legible. I find no flaws here. RATING: 9.5

Sea-Dweller: The unidirectional bezel is about the most easily turned which I’ve ever tried – extremely smooth and precise. I can easily grip it, and it has nice “click” sound as it makes its way around the dial. The markings on the bezel align perfectly with both the dial markers and hands, and are very legible. I find no flaws here. RATING: 10

Winner: Sea-Dweller. Both are excellent bezels very suitable for dive use, but the Rolex bezel is just a bit smoother, and less “ratchety” than the Omega.

DIAL, MARKERS, & HANDS

Seamaster: The oversized markers and the large arrowhead hands make for excellent visibility. The luminescent coating (Superluminova) on the hands and markers makes glow very strong, but I believe the previous Seamaster Pro hands and markets are just a bit stronger due to the available surface area . The date, while unmagnified is also easily read. RATING: 10

Sea-Dweller: The dial of the Sea-Dweller is a work of art, and perhaps one of the most copied styles in watch history. The white gold markers and Mercedes style hands are a classic. Unlike the Submariner, the Sea-Dweller does not have a magnification bubble over the date, giving the dial area a cleaner look. Rolex also uses Superluminova on the hands and markers, but they have a smaller surface area compared to the Planet Ocean, so the glow isn’t as bright. RATING: 9

WINNER: Seamaster. Both dials are excellent, but the Planet Ocean will clearly be the more legible of the two both above and below the water by virtue of its size alone.

CRYSTAL

Seamaster: The Planet Ocean uses a Sapphire crystal that has an anti-reflective coating applied to both sides (top and bottom). Applying a coating to the topside of a sapphire crystal is a horrible mistake, and you can see why in the above photo. While the crystal is scratch resistant due to the man-made sapphire from which it is cut, the coating applied to the crystal can be scratched and will eventually show up, as you can see is happening to Scott’s PO. Additionally, the dual coating gives the dial a distinct and (in my opinion) unattractive blue hue from certain lighting angles, which you can also see in the above photos. Both of these problems are avoided when the AR coating is simply applied to the underside of the crystal, where it can’t be scratched – Omega did this with the Seamaster Professional, so its a mystery to me as to why they changed direction with the Planet Ocean. To me, this is a serious flaw. RATING: 7

Sea-Dweller: A sapphire crystal is also used on the Sea-Dweller, but no anti-reflective coating is applied. The crystal is also quick thick, and stands up well above the bezel – the increased thickness is necessary for its depth rating, and does not impact dial visibility. RATING: 8.5

WINNER: Sea-Dweller – I ‘d love to see what a Rolex dial would look like with an AR coating applied to the underside of the crystal, but the lack of it on the Sea-Dweller doesn’t create any serious visibility problems. The double AR coated PO crystal is a serious problem however – were I to own one, I’d have to go to the expense of having the top side coating removed.

BRACELET

Seamaster: This is an extremely thick and heavy bracelet – it does not taper as the bracelet gets closer to the clasp like most other bracelets. Solid end links and center links are used, and this bracelet isn’t a hair puller. The bracelet top and bottom have a brushed finish, and the sides are polished. It’s well constructed, but the weight of it won’t appeal to everyone. Friction pins are used in the adjustable links. RATING: 9

Sea-Dweller: The Oyster bracelet has changed very little over the years. The use of screws in the links makes for easy self-sizing. The brushed finished on the top and bottom is both attractive and scratch resistant, while the sides of the links are polished. The end links of the SD are solid, but the center links are hollow. RATING: 8.5

WINNER: Seamaster. Tough call here – each has obvious strengths and weaknesses. The PO bracelet feels like a much heavier, more substantial bracelet. The Sea-Dweller bracelet is, to me, more comfortable. Rolex uses a higher grade steel (904) than Omega (316L) in the bracelet. However, I can discern no significant functional advantage for them to do so in a watch bracelet, and 904 grade steel is approximate 3 times more expensive than 316L. My research indicates 904 grade steel is more commonly used in industrial components which under constant exposure to highly corrosive substances (acids and the like) – conditions which a watch bracelet simply will not be exposed to. Therefore, there is no appreciable benefit to the 904 grade steel in the Rolex bracelet as compared to 316L used in the Omega bracelet. Indeed, no other watch manufacturer uses 904. The Oyster bracelet on the SD will be easier to size, by virtue of the screws in the adjustable links as opposed to friction pins in the PO bracelet: Slight edge to the PO for solid center links.

CLASP

Seamaster: The Planet Ocean uses the same two-button deployment clasp with integrated diver suit extension used on the Seamaster Professional. The clasp is easily opened and closed, yet feels extremely sturdy. The diver extension is also easily deployed. The clasp has an extremely high quality feel, and is the best bracelet clasp I have ever used. The large amount of smooth surface area on the bottom of the clasp is reputedly scratch- prone, but I’ve found the scratches are easily buffed out. The clasp also lacks a fine adjustment pin (the bracelet includes a half-sized link for sizing purposes) which some feel detracts from the comfort of the overall bracelet. RATING: 8.5

Sea-Dweller: The clasp is easily the weakest point on the entire watch. The flip lock clap has been used on Rolex watches for years, and functionally is quite secure, and extremely scratch resistant. However, the flimsy, thin, stamped sheet metal used in the clasp is simply unacceptable given the price of the watch. Many users report the divers extension is difficult to use. Yes, the clasp does the simple job it was designed to do. No, Rolex has absolutely no motivation to do anything differently based on the sales success. RATING: 7.5

WINNER: Seamaster. The Omega clasp is superior in both form and function.

MOVEMENT

Seamaster: The self-winding Caliber 2500 is based upon the ETA 2892-2. The use of the ETA ebauche means that the Caliber 2500 isn’t considered an “in house” movement, or manufacturer’s caliber in the strictest of sense. But, given that both Omega and legendary movement manufacturer ETA are owned by the Swatch Group, the Caliber 2500 might just be an “in family” movement even if it isn’t manufactured completely “in house” by Omega. The Caliber 2500 ads 2 more jewels as compared to the Caliber 1120 (27 jewels in total) as well as employing the revolutionary Co-Axial Escapement designed by George Daniels. The primary engineering advantage gained by this design feature is greatly reduced friction. Thanks to this reduction in friction within the movement, the Caliber 2500 requires minimal lubrication. The Planet Ocean can go an amazing 10 years between servicing, and has a warranty period from Omega one year longer than other watches they sell (3 year manufactures warranty.). Additionally, the Caliber 2500 is equipped with a simplified regulating system called a free-sprung balance which greatly improves the timing precision of this COSC certified movement. The Caliber 2500 vibrates at a speed of 25, 200 VPH – an unusual beat speed that to my knowledge has never before been used in a movement balance. Apparently the odd balance speed is attributable to the complex co-axial escapement, and the somewhat narrow parameters in which it operates optimally. RATING: 7.5

Sea-Dweller: Inside the Sea-Dweller beats the 31 jewel Rolex caliber 3135 (designed and manufactured entirely “in house” by Rolex) which has been in service since 1989. In those 18 years of service, the 3135 has garnered a reputation as being one of the most reliable, and robust watch movements ever created. At the same time, the movement has been criticized at times for lacking refinement and technological sophistication. True, the 3135 won’t win any beauty contests (Rolex finishes and decorates a movement to a lesser degree than other manufacturers), but intentionally so. It was designed from the beginning as a movement to be encased in a stainless steel Oyster case, and endure rigorous conditions and treacherous environments – it’s a clear case of function over form. I would also argue that the 3135 isn’t lacking in technological sophistication – within the watch industry, Rolex Research and Development is regarded as being second to none. Rolex has implemented several, truly notable features into the 3135, such as a Breguet overcoil balance-spring, Microstella adjustment screws, and Kif shock absorption. The high-beat movement oscillates at 28,800 beats per hour (BPH). In short, it’s hard to criticize Rolex for setting the benchmark which other manufactures strive to attain. RATING: 8.0

WINNER: Sea-Dweller. The Omega 2500, comes very close to achieving what the 3135 has, with the biggest improvement coming in the form of the freely sprung balance wheel which Omega has implemented. Rolex gets the nod for being an unmodified, in house movement, and the higher beat speed.

PRESTIGE

Seamaster: Omega is an extremely well known, well respected brand, both within and outside watch enthusiast circles. Omega estimates their own brand recognition to be 70% world wide (7 out of every 10 people have heard of Omega watches). Omega marketing works hard to maintain and increase this recognition, and to associate the brand with celebrities and activities which suggest success and achievement. The Planet Ocean is a very new model, so very few people have heard of it outside of watch circles. RATING: 7.

Sea-Dweller: Rolex may well be the prestige standard by which all other watch brands are measured. Rolex is unequaled in their marketing efforts. Even people who know virtually nothing about watches recognize the Rolex name and associate with it being “the best.” The prestige of the Sea-Dweller may well be gauged by who you’re talking to – The SD has a cult following among both divers and watch enthusiasts, but the model is less well known among the general population . RATING: 9

Winner: Rolex is the hands down winner of this category. In fact, many people buy Rolex watches on this basis alone.

PRICE

Seamaster: $3400.00 retail is certainly a lot of money, but the “street” price of this watch can typically see a 30-35% discount off the retail price. The Planet Ocean is about $1000.00 or so more than the Seamaster Professional – that’s pretty hard to justify, even with the Co-Axial caliber 2500. Since the current Planet Ocean version of the Seamaster has been around less than 3 yrs., long term pricing trends are inconclusive. Well maintained, vintage Omega Seamaster models hold and in some cases appreciate in value. Well maintained current model Seamasters seem to be holding roughly 50% of their retail value at this point. So, one can conclude that if a current model Seamaster is purchased either used or new at street price levels, then one stands to loose very little, if any of the purchase price if the watch is later sold. RATING: 7.0

Sea-Dweller: Three factors contribute to the current retail pricing and future value of Rolex watches. The Rolex policy of continuously, and regularly increasing the retail price is why the Sea-Dweller is currently priced at $5375.00 retail. Rolex is tyrannical when it comes to discounting, so it’s rare to see a Rolex discounted any more than 10%, if at all. Additionally, Rolex controls production to ensure supply does not exceed demand. Obviously the closer to actual retail price one pays for a Sea-Dweller, the longer one will have to hold on to the watch without experiencing a loss when reselling (the asking price of a used Rolex seems to increase in direct proportion to the escalating retail price). But, one does have a better than fair chance of recouping their investment or even making some money if they sell their Sea-Dweller in the future. There is no empirical reason for the high price of the Sea-Dweller, yet Rolex sells every watch they make so they have no reason to alter their pricing policy. RATING: 6

Winner: The Planet Ocean isn’t the bargain that the Seamaster Professional is (was – rumor has it that the SMP is being discontinued by Omega) but its still a fairly good value, and considerably less than the Sea-Dweller.

RESULTS

TOTAL POINTS POSSIBLE: 90

SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN TOTAL POINTS: 74.5

SEA-DWELLER TOTAL POINTS: 76.5

TOTAL NUMBER OF CATEGORIES: 9

TOTAL CATEGORIES TIED: 0

TOTAL CATEGORIES SEAMASTER: 4

TOTAL CATEGORIES SEA-DWELLER: 5

Given that I purchased the Sea-Dweller and not the Planet Ocean, I recognize a degree of inherit bias on my part in evaluating these two watches. Still, only two points separate these two great watches.

From a less objective, and more personal standpoint – there’s considerably more than two points between these two watches – the Planet Ocean just isn’t for me, and I much prefer the Seamaster Professional from Omega. For me, the PO is just too darn big in the 45.5mm size, I don’t like the flat black dial, I don’t care for the hands, and the double AR coated crystal is an absolute deal breaker for me. I loved the polished accents on the Seamaster Professional bracelet, and I loved the distinctive shape of the scalloped bezel. In my mind, the Sea-Dweller is an absolute timeless classic, more aesthetically pleasing, and a much stronger diving tool than the Planet Ocean. The Planet Ocean seems more “trendy” to me – what happens in 10 years when Orange is no longer the color de jour, and oversized watches are out of favor? For me, there truly is only one King of the sea – the Sea-Dweller.

You can discuss this article in the Omega Forum of my online luxury watch discussion forum community WATCH TALK FORUMS.

Comparative Review of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Reference 116520 VS. The Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow Model 3551.20.00

John B. Holbrook, II — Tue, 03 Aug 2010 19:18:37 +0000

Comparative Review of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Reference 116520
VS. The Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow Model 3551.20.00
By: John B. Holbrook, II
December 26, 2004

It’s been almost 2 years since I last did a “shoot out” article between Rolex and Omega – back in June of 2003 I compared the Omega Seamaster to the Rolex Submariner. That article remains one of the most popular that I’ve ever written, and typically gets the most “clicks” of any on my review web sites. It was a fun piece to do, and I really enjoyed pitting those closely matched, long time rivals against one another. So it’s like going back home again as I once again examine the attributes of competing Rolex and Omega watches and ask the question, “who makes the best sports chronograph?”

CASE & BEZEL

Broad Arrow – The Broad Arrow has a polished 40mm, stainless steel case, with a screw down case back that provides 100m of water resistance. Amazingly, Omega has designed the Broad Arrow with this exceptional level of water resistance without the use of screw pusher or a screw down crown. Given the polished surface, the tachymeter is somewhat difficult to read in direct sunlight on the flat, fixed bezel, and not as scratch resistant as would be a brushed finish, but quite attractive. RATING: 8.5

Daytona – The Daytona has a polished 40mm, stainless steel case, with a screw down case back that provides 100m of water resistance. The Daytona uses the Rolex Triplock screw down crown (note the 3 dots in the above picture) as well as screw down pushers to ensure water resistance. Despite the highly polished tachymeter bezel, it remains reasonably visible in direct sunlight as it sits on an angle. RATING: 8

WINNER: Broad Arrow – Despite the difference in visibility, the Broad Arrow gains a big advantage thanks to the engineering feat of making a 100m water resistant case without having to sacrifice quick-chrono activation by using screw down pushers.

DIAL, MARKERS, & REGISTERS

Broad Arrow – The Broad Arrow’s cream dial is contrasted by metallic blue hands and markers which color shift in different light. The traditional 3 register layout has nice contrast, but lacks symmetry and feels busy and crowded, primarily due to the vary graduations used on each of the three registers. The dial also boasts a date display at 6 o’clock. The thick, arrow hands of the main dial are cosmetically attractive, but detract from the visibility of the registers. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal. Small dots of Super Luminova are placed above each marker, as well as on the dials and provide modest low light visibility. RATING: 7

Daytona – The Daytona dial is a joy. The white gold markers and stick hands are both legible and beautiful. Very traditional dial layout of the very readable silver chrono registers, with the second hand register at a sensible 6 o’clock position. The pure white dial is absolutely gorgeous. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, and Super Luminova is used on the markers and hands for low light visibility. RATING: 9

WINNER: Daytona. I never truly warmed up to the off white dial color on the Broad Arrow, and the chrono registers are poorly laid out. The Daytona on the other hand, may very well have one of the world’s most beautiful watch dials ever. It’s hard to imagine a better, more sensible layout and execution of the registers. As much as I want to like the Broad Arrow better for providing the additional functionality of a date display, Rolex gets the clear nod in this category.

BRACELET & CLASP

Broad Arrow – It’s hard to find fault with the Broad Arrow bracelet and clasp. The adjustable links are held in place by push pins, which are somewhat difficult to size. However, thanks to the fine adjustment pin in the clasp, I was able to get a very pleasing fit. The bracelet has primarily a brushed finish, with thin polished strips running along the out edges of the center link. The two button Speedmaster clasp is secure, attractive and easy to use. The large flat surface area of the clasp will pick up scratches, but is easily buffed out by hand. The bracelet connects to the lugs via solid end links. RATING: 9.5

Daytona – The Rolex Oyster bracelet and clasp are quite different than any other Rolex sport watch, and greatly improved. Not only does the bracelet have solid end links, but it also has solid center links (most sport Oyster bracelets have hollow center links, with the Yachtmaster being the notable exception). The bracelet is easily self-sized via the screwed in adjustable links. Normally, a Rolex Oyster bracelet is about the most durable bracelet money can buy. However, the Daytona bracelet has a polished center link running throughout. While the polished surface adds greatly to the cosmetic appeal of the watch, it will show scratches quickly and easily. The Daytona flip lock clasp is completely different from any other Rolex clasp as well as being better by an order of magnitude. Gone are the thin, stamped metal pieces, and instead we’re given a clasp that feels as substantial and high in quality as the rest of the watch. The clasp also has a fine adjustment pin. Kudos to Rolex for creating this clasp, and I hope it soon becomes standard issue on all Sport Rolex models. RATING: 9

WINNER: Broad Arrow. I’d like to give the nod to Rolex in this category, simply because the Daytona bracelet is the best Rolex has ever made. However, the Broad Arrow bracelet is more is easier to maintain, and I’m not sure a better clasp exists on any watch.

MOVEMENT

Broad Arrow – Caliber 3303 Movement Specifications:

33 jewel, self-winding (bi-directional rotor)

28,800 BPH

55 hr. power reserve

COSC Certified

The caliber 3303 is Omega’s first movement that can truly be considered a manufacturers movement since the Swatch Group acquisition of Omega. Based on the Frederic Piquet caliber 1185, and produced in a Piquet facility now owned by Omega, the 3303 is a fantastic movement, with not only a pedigree in “high horology” but also some very noteworthy technology – a free sprung balance, column wheel control mechanism, and lever escapement. The 3303 is also finely decorated by Omega with rhodium plating, and Geneva waves and striping throughout. Unfortunately, since the watches launch in 2001, the 3303 and it’s variants have been marred by some quality control issues. Omega has gone on record saying that the noted problems have been eliminated in the newest examples of the 3303, but examples still exist on dealer shelves that exhibit the infamous chronograph reset issue. Once the memory of the launch issues fade, the 3303 will likely be remembered as one of Omega’s greatest achievements, and a true giant among chronograph movements. RATING: 8

Daytona – Caliber 4130 Movement Specifications:

44 jewel, self-winding (bi-directional rotor)

28,800 BPH

72 hr. power reserve

COSC Certified

When the new Daytona debuted in 2000 with the new 4130 chronograph movement, it was a critical milestone for Rolex – they now could make they claim that every movement of every watch they make was “in house.” Design with Rolex’s hallmark approach to pragmatic simplicity, the design of the 4130 has been labeled by some as being “idiot proof” in servicing. It employs a freely sprung balance, a Brequet balance-spring, and Kif shock absorption. The 4130 is also considered Rolex’s most finely finished movement, and is given uncharacteristic attention to cosmetic detail by Rolex. Thus far in its short service life, the 4130′s record is impeccable, and has drawn nothing but praise and admiration from the horological community. It’s already being called one of the top 10 watch movements ever made. RATING: 9

WINNER: Daytona. Clearly both the 3303 and 4130 are exceptionally good movements and extremely worthy competitors. No doubt, it is the movements in both of these watches which make them so coveted among the watch enthusiast community. Once the quality control issues are out of memory, the 3303 may well one day be considered an equal to the 4130, but it’s doubtful the 3303 could exceed the marvelous 4130.

PRICE

Broad Arrow – The Broad Arrow currently retails for $4495. This price point has been criticized by Omega fans as being $1000.00 over other sport chronos that Omega sells, including ones equipped with virtually the same 33xx movement. However, when you survey the field of luxury sport chronographs with similar horological pedigrees, one quickly discovers the Broad Arrow is not over priced relative to the competition. Unfortunately, the Broad Arrow seems to experience a sharp depreciation, with examples showing up in secondary markets for as little as $2000.00. RATING: 7.5

Daytona – What is the true price of the stainless steel Daytona? Sure, the current retail price of the a new SS Daytona is $6550.00. But each Rolex dealer is given by Rolex one, perhaps two SS Daytonas per year. As a result, nearly every Rolex dealer in the world maintains a waiting list of rabid customers, and Daytonas in the secondary markets at nearly twice the retail price. I personally looked for a white dial Daytona for 2 years, and spent a year on the waiting lists of three different dealers before lightning struck and I purchased my F Series Daytona at retail from an authorized dealer. Such is the problem when you try to acquire what is widely considered the most highly sought after watch in the world – expect a high price. RATING: 6.0

WINNER: Broad Arrow. Scarcity and secondary market considerations aside, the cost of ownership is definitely lower in the case of the Broad Arrow. This is especially true given that it’s not difficult to purchase the Broad Arrow at a discount from an authorized dealer – something not likely to ever be the case with a SS Daytona.

PRESTIGE

Broad Arrow – Among watch enthusiasts, the Broad Arrow is a very well respected watch, and deserves to be. Combining the lineage of the Speedmaster line, as well as the horological pedigree it’s movement provides, the Broad Arrow is a shinning star in the Omega watch catalog, and a great source of pride for any collector. Unfortunately, the above mentioned quality control issues have given Omega and the Broad Arrow something of a black eye, and hampered the watch’s overall reputation. Outside of well informed watch collectors, the Broad Arrow isn’t likely to be recognized, in the same way as say, a “Bond” Seamaster would. RATING: 6.5

Daytona - The Rolex brand name is one of the most prestigious and well recognized marquees in the word. Due to its extreme scarcity, the Daytona is widely considered a “holy grail” among Rolex fans and watch collectors. To most in the general public, the Daytona doesn’t look like a typical Rolex, so the recognition factor isn’t as high as would be other Rolexes. Still, the Daytona has been building upon it’s reputation among both race fans and watch collectors for several decades. RATING: 9.5

WINNER: Daytona. It is difficult to conceive of a watch that carries with it more prestige than the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona.

RESULTS

TOTAL POSSIBLE POINTS: 60 (10 points in each of six categories)

Broad Arrow Total: 47.0

Daytona Total: 50.5

TOTAL CATEGORIES WON:

Broad Arrow Total: 3

Daytona Total: 3

In many respects, the Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow is every bit as good a watch as the Rolex Daytona, and in some cases better. However, there’s no denying that the Daytona is king among luxury sport chronographs, and perhaps ever one of the top 10 watches in the world. For those asking themselves “which one do I get?” the answer may come down to availability. Being able to purchase a Broad Arrow now, vs. months, perhaps years of waiting for a Daytona is not an insignificant factor.

In terms of my personal non-objective opinion, I prefer the Daytona. The layout and color of the Broad Arrow dial lost it’s appeal over time, and I eventually sold it. The Daytona is, to my eye, just prettier to look at, and even though I could sell my Daytona and make enough profit to buy another Broad Arrow, I intend to keep the Daytona for the foreseeable future. Perhaps one day Omega will make a Broad Arrow variant more to my liking cosmetically speaking, and give the watch a display back to that the gorgeous 3303 movement can be easily viewed.

You can discuss this article in the Omega Forum of my online luxury watch discussion forum community WATCH TALK FORUMS.